Stuck SUN P7 pellet burner – how to fix.

arzator peleti Ferroli SUN P7
Ferroli GFN8 boiler with Ferroli SUN P7 pellet burner.
- problems and fixes -

versiunea in romana

Problem with SUN P7 pellet burner

The problem that I had with SUN P7 pellet burner was that it was jamming all the time. The tube was getting filled with pellets and the burner would stop and switch on the fault light.

After some investigation I saw that the pellets were jamming somewhere in the metallic neck of the burner. But it was not a strong blockage. At the slightest movement the pellets would fall in the grille. Very strange. I tried to clean very well the tube and the metallic neck but to no avail. From about two attempts to start, one would fail.

Click here to skip to solution.

 

SUN P7 presentation

SUN P7 has a minimum of automation:

  • a fan – provides air for combustion (the boiler ash door must be completely closed).
  • heating element – ignites the pellets.
  • pressure sensor – the fan can blow with different pressures depending on the set power of the burner. If the fan blows stronger, the pellets will burn faster and the burner will generate more power.
  • light sensor – photoresistance which detects the flame or lack of flame.
  • 85°C sensor – mounted on the loading tube; it’s only for safety.
  • temperature sensor (not in image) – is mounted inside the shell of the boiler (in the special place inside it’s walls).
  • no sensor to detect when it’s stuck with pellets or other sensors.
  • it can be programmed to function after a fixed daily schedule, but different schedule for each week day.

When it get’s stuck, the light from the flame can not reach the light sensor anymore. In this way it detects, indirectly, the blockage.

The burner has 3 menus.

The first menu is accessed by holding down the M button (5 seconds) until the first parameter blinks on the screen. Due to the strange display, the first parameter u01, with value 80 will be displayed like so: u 80 01.

To advance to the next parameter, press P.

To modify the value of the current parameter press + or –

After you have modified a value, you must wait 3 seconds for it to be saved! If you scroll to next parameter too quick, the value will not be saved. (in conclusion you must check that the value was actually saved – annoying).

To exit the menu, hold button M pressed until the clock appears again.

The menu:

Parameter Description Allowed values Factory settings
u01 Delivery setpoint adjustment 30 – 80°C 80°C
u02 Power level setting 1 – 5 3
u03 Burner operation method 0 – 2 0

The burner has 5 power settings(u02). For each setting you can set the pressure/speed of the fan and how many seconds to load pellets during one burning cycle.

For each setting you can set any power level, from minimum to maximum. In other words, setting 1 can be set to have a low power level or a high power level. I recommend to set them in increasing power level, from setting 1 to setting 5. If you use the modulation function (the burner can automatically switch from one power level  to another, depending on the needs) then it’s mandatory to set the power levels like this.

If you will use only one power level (recommended until you get used with the burner) then it is necessary only to set the used power setting.

The burner has 3 methods of operation (u03):

  • 0 – the burner will start only when the ignition is requested by the thermostat or by a switch (manual). The weekly schedule is ignored.
  • 1 – the burner will start when the weekly schedule requests it or when the thermostat requests it or when the manual switch is pressed. It’s very important to understand the „or” in this text. This means that the burner will start when any of the above conditions are met. Usually this method is used when you want a weekly schedule and additionally you want to start it manually. The thermostat and the manual switch  are tied together so they will be active one or the other (not both at the same time).
  • 2 – the burner starts when the weekly schedule requests it and the thermostat also requests it (or the manual switch). For example, if you set it to function only one hour during the day, the burner will start only in that hour and only if the temperature is bellow the thermostat set temperature (or the manual switch is pressed).

I recommend functioning method 0, with a thermostat, just like a gas burner.

 

The second menu is accessed by holding down P button (10 seconds – it’s good they didn’t make it 10 minutes…).

The parameters are modified in the same way like on the first menu: P will advance to next parameter, + and – will modify the value.

After you modified a value, you must wait 3 seconds so that it it’s saved. If you jump to quickly to next parameter, the value will not be saved (you must come back and check that the value was saved – annoying).

To quit the menu, hold P until the clock appears again(10 seconds).

Menu P parameters:

  • t01 – the burner has no sensor to detect if pellets are falling through the tube or not (the sensor mounted on the tube is a temperature sensor). The burner will just power the auger for x seconds and hope that pellets will fall. Because of this, before you start the burner for the first time you must power only the auger first, until it will be filled with pellets. To do this set this parameter to 1. The auger will spin for 5 minutes (remove the tube from the burner first). After 5 minutes the parameter is reset to 0 automatically. You can set it to 1 again if the auger is not yet filled with pellets. You can do this 3 times. After that you must disconnect the power and reconnect it for 3 more tries.
  • t02 – if enabled the burner will stop when temperature will be close to 100°C. The temperature sensor is inside the boilers walls.
  • t03 – air pressure (fan speed) during ignition phase (don’t modify).
  • t04 – defines what quantity of pellets will be loaded first, before ignition phase. Take care when setting this parameter: the value on the screen must be multiplied by 4. For example, 8 on the screen means it will power the auger for 8 x 4 = 32 seconds.
  • t05 – it’s used when the burner power modulation is activated (t18 = 1). Burner will switch from one power level to another depending on demand. For example, if this parameter is set to 5 (5 seconds) then every 5 seconds the burner will modify current power level settings to be closer to next power level setting.
  • t06 – defines how long it take to switch from one power level to next power level (only if t18 = 1). I’m not 100% sure.
  • t07 – defines the length of a burning cycle (after ignition phase): time to wait for pellets to burn + time to load pellets.
  • t08 – t17 – each power level has 2 parameters: air pressure and how long is the period in which auger is powered and pellets are loaded. Pellets loading time is set in tens of seconds (53 means 5.3 seconds).
  • t18 – if it’s set to 0 the burner will use only one power level (the one selected by u02); if it’s set to 1 the burner will automatically switch between different power levels (not recommended until you get used with the burner; all power levels must be properly set).
  • t19 – post ventilation duration. How long, in tens of a second, the fan will continue to blow after the burner decided it will stop. During this period the remaining pellets are burned and ash is blown away from the grille. Recommended to be a big value, because in this way the grille will not have to be manually cleaned too often.
  • t20 – photoresistance voltage ??? 🙂

 

How SUN P7 pellets burner works

When the burner starts, first it will ventilate the boiler for some time. During this time only the fan works.

After ventilation period, the burner will load pellets for some time (set with parameter t04). The purpose is to have enough pellets in the grille so that the heating element is covered.

After this, the heating element is powered and the fan will blow slowly until the pellets ignite. Ignition is detected by the light sensor.

From this moment on, the burner will enter a cycle. In the first part of the cycle it will not load pellets, in the second it will load pellets. And then it repeats. The duration of the cycle is set with parameter t07. The duration of the period in which it loads pellets is set with parameters t09, t11, t13, t15, t17 depending on the power level in which the burner functions (only one parameter per level). For example, if t07 is 15 seconds, and t09 is 5 seconds, then the burner will wait 10 seconds for the pellets to burn and 5 seconds will load pellets and then it will repeat.

Immediately after ignition, the duration of a cycle is equal with the value set by t07 but  the auger will load less pellets than defined by t09, t11, t13, t15, t17 parameters. This is because, initially, it loads a lot of pellets and they need time to burn. That’s why the duration of the loading period is small after ignition but it will increase until it reaches the value set.

 

Solution

The burner was getting blocked all the time because the initial quantity of pellets (before ignition) was too big. So big, that the burner was blocked from the very beginning. The pellets filled the grille and almost all the metal neck. The culprit was parameter t04 which was too big: 8 x 4 = 32 seconds during which pellets were loaded. I reduced in half this parameter and the strange blockages disappeared. This is the only thing you have to modify from the factory settings or the settings that were set during installation.

It is possible that this parameter will not create any problems if you have very good quality pellets.

The pellets that I had were of poor quality which means that although they ignited, they didn’t burn very fast. Immediately after ignition the burner would start to load more pellets, trying to reach a normal working cycle. But, as the burner was almost blocked, the newly loaded pellets jammed it even harder. After it loaded pellets for a few times, it became completely jammed and the light from the fire would not reach the light sensor anymore. At this moment the burner would think that the fire went out (not enough pellets in the grille?) and it would start a new ignition which meant it would load pellets for 32 more seconds! And so, little by little, the loading tube was filled with pellets. After a few ignition attempts, the burner would stop and turn on the error light…

Interestingly, after this moment, the pellets would slowly burn almost completely from the grille. That’s why when I would check to see what is the cause of the blockage all I could see was an empty grille. And, even stranger, at the slightest movement the pellets that were jammed on the tube would start to fall down in the grille, sometimes while I was opening the door.

To find this problem took a lot of time also because in the paper manual that we received from ferroli.ro it was stated to never modify this parameter (?).

The quality of pellets is important. The pellets of poor quality are easy to identify: if when you clean the grille you find large chunks of glass-like waste (see pictures) then the pellets contain sand. The problem is that sand will not generate any heat and chunks of glass will form in the grille so that you have to clean it more often (the fan will blow away any ash but not the chunks of glass).

The pellets must be kept in nylon bags because otherwise they will absorb moisture from air and it will be like trying to burn green wood.

Pellets of good quality have pretty large chunks of wood inside them (you can see this when you break them). The poor quality ones are more dusty. I recommend you to buy good quality pellets because any savings that you will get from poor quality pellets will be canceled by the fact that sand will not generate any heat and also, the sand is quite heavy.

 

Conclusions

The burner SUN P7 from Ferroli has a minimum of automation, which means that is has no extra sensors apart from was is strictly necessary to function and for safety. There are burners that can measure the exhaust gases for example. For SUN P7 these are measured only after the installation and anyway, theoretically,  if you change your pellets you have to measure them again and fine tune the burner.

The burner has some annoying things like:

  • the screen is to little and too crowded.
  • the fact that you must press the menu buttons for 5 or 10 seconds (why not 5 seconds for both menus? 10 seconds is too long).
  • the weird way in which parameters are displayed: u01 with value 80 will be displayed like so u 80 01.
  • after changing one parameter you have to wait for 3 seconds until the value is saved, without any indication that the value was saved.
  • the fact that the burner is working is showed by only one segment of an 8 digit.
  • the grille is fixed with a screw to the cylinder in which it sits so you have to take it down every time you want to clean the grille (luckily it’s easy to replace it with a stud).
  • the boiler door is closed with a nut. So every time you have to clean the boiler you need a wrench. At other boilers the door is closed with a nut with handle. Much easier to use.
  • the boiler does not show what it tries to do: pre-ventilation, ignition, normal working cycle, post-ventilation etc. but maybe I want too much 🙂

Recommendations:

  • the burner door can be mounted without taking down the original boiler door. One has hinges on the left, the other one on the right. This means that you can quickly switch from pellets to wood when you need to: just open one door and close the other.
  • in order to be able to open the boiler door easily, do not let the workers cut the electric cables too tight or to fix them on the boiler. The cables must be long enough so you can fully open the door because you need to clean not only the burner but also the boiler (door must be able to open 180 degrees). In the same way, the loading tube must be longer.
  • in order for the door to open 180 degrees, the pellet hopper must be placed behind the front line of the boiler.
  • the boiler should be placed high above the floor so that you can easily take out the ash and also to be able to clean under it.
  • the hopper must be placed high enough so that the level difference between the auger head and the top of the metal neck from the burner to be at least 60cm.
  • the pipes behind the boiler should be connected in such a way that they allow easy access to chimney for cleaning.
  • the advantage of a pellet burner is that you can use wood (pellets) to heat your house but in the same time you can set your room temperature with a thermostat. And you don’t have to load wood every 4 hours like with a regular wood boiler.
  • however you are still burning wood which means that you will have the same quantity of ash and dust and that you will have to periodically clean the burner and the boiler (that’s why you should organize everything so that the cleaning is easy).

 

Even with the shown defects, SUN P7 is a great burner that works very well once you set it up.

 

108 gânduri despre “Stuck SUN P7 pellet burner – how to fix.”

  1. Hello,
    nice rewev and great explanations! I have same type of burner, but my boiler is SFL3. I am satisfied with it, but there are two things that I would like to ask You:
    Do You think that it can be possible to muve that damn display on some more convenient place? On my type of boiler the burner is mounted on the lower door, so I have to go on my knees with some lamp in order to see what is happening there. It drives me crazy!
    The other thing that happens to me is that pellets in hooper does not roll down nicely, and it happens all the time that above the hole where pellets enter to the transporter pipe, it is forming some kind of funnel, and the burner stop to feed, because all pellets are lying against the hooper walls. So, I have to feed it every dey, or level it by hand.
    It spend 35-40kg pellets a day

    1. yeah, we had to do the same to read the little screen. I don’t remember exactly how the display is connected (and I don’t have access to this burner anymore) but all you have to do is extend the wires. You should call an electronist to do it if you have no experience. Maybe the wires will also need to be protected from electric interferences.

      As for the other thing, did you check the pellets size? check what the manual states as maximum size and what you have. This could be a problem. We had a habit, everytime we entered that room we leveled the pellets (actually build a small hill of pellets on top of the auger). What you could also do, buy a bigger hooper or just extend this one with some plywood.

    2. Certo è possibile spostare il display, devi allungare i cavi. In questo modo lo puoi installare dove ritieni più comodo e non devi sdraiarti a terra. Attenzione però a rispettare la polarità, cioè i fili devo essere collegato allo stesso modo di come erano collegati prima di allungare i cavi.
      Puoi dirmi se il boccaglio, oppure la griglia del tuo bruciatore Sun P7 si è usurata, cioè consumata dalla fiamma.

      Ciao e saluti.

    1. Nino si riceverà la newsletter. Questo è un piccolo blog. Non ci sono nuovi articoli. La tua e-mail è già presente nell’elenco newsletter.

      Grazie.

    2. Buon Giorno

      mi son instalatore e servis per bruciattori e caldaia gas e gasolio in Croazia ( fiume )
      Se avete instruzzioni come regolare brucciatore ( P7 e P 12 ) vi ringrazzio molto
      Salute da Fiume
      Heberling Ivo

  2. Hi,

    Nice explanation of operation, thanks!!!
    I have the same installation with the same burner. In order to operate the burner in modulating mode do i need any special sensor or probe? For now the value of t18 is 0 so my burner starts at power level one and gradually rising stays at power level 5 (set with u02).

    1. Hi Antonis,
      I never tried to modulate the power; we were strugling with just making it work :)). From that parameters table it does seem that you need a Delivery Probe but I don’t know what that means. Just go to a ferolli dealer and ask them (and maybe post back their answer).

      If you have t18 set to 0 and u02 set to 5 it means that the burner will start straight in power level 5. Now of course, because it burns wood (pellets), it will slowly reach that power level. What I want to clarify is that the parameters for power levels 1-4 have no influence on your setup.

  3. Scusate avete provato la nuova griglia che si vede su kadria.cz.
    Qualcuno la usa e come la giudica, cioè è vero che aumenta l’efficienza del 30% ???

    1. Ho usato solo la griglia standard.
      Non conosco l’efficienza di tale griglia. Non credo che si dice „efficienza”. Penso che dire „potenza massima”.

  4. Per Drona,
    hai provato altri bruciatori a pellet oppure hai usato altri bruciatori a pellet ???
    Comunque il Sun P7 in base alla tua esperienza che giudizio puoi esprime, ti sei trovato bene con questo bruciatore ???
    Io lo uso da 3 anni e posso dire che funziona bene, tranne il fatto che il boccaglio (acciaio) si è consumato (a te è successo ???) nelle due estremità laterali, cioè dove passa la fiamma. Ho comunque provveduto a girarlo, la parte consumata adesso è attaccata al corpo del bruciatore ed il pezzo del boccaglio che entra nella caldaia è come se fosse nuovo.
    Inoltre si è consumato il pezzo posto all’interno del boccaglio dove urta il pellet prima di cadere sulla griglia, ho dovuto con l’aiuto di un fabbro saldare un pezzo di ferro sagomato come quello che era montato di fabbrica. A te è successo ???

    1. Ho solo usato questo bruciatore. E ‘ancora nuovo. Penso che iti è un bruciatore buona, ma è necessario impostare i parametri buoni.

      Quello che dici non è accaduto a me. Forse la ventola soffia l’aria molto e la temperatura è troppo alta. Prova a rimettere le impostazioni di fabbrica per il ventilatore e la coclea.

  5. Hi,

    Today after my every-3 day ash cleanup 🙁 i changed the operating mode to modulating, set with t18 to value 1, and the burner started without any warnings. I suppose that it does not need any other sensors and from what i read in the manual it refers to a pressure sensor and one is already installed inside the burner from the factory (left-top black thing shown in the photo you posted). I will let u know how it operates later the following days.

    Just one thing i checked today is the exaust gases temperature. From my knowledge it is supposed to be around 220 celcius measured 20cm from the exaust output of your boiler. If it is higher it means you loose heat through the pipes in the atmosphear. Mine is around 215 and the max i got was 230.

    I will be back soon with more info!!

    (P.S. the manual says max consumption 7.2Kg/h which i find more or less true, in my case. What about your consumption?)

    1. some valuable informations there. Thanks!
      Don’t know about consumption because I don’t have access to that burner anymore and at the time it was used only to keep temperature above freezing (7°C).

      1. Carrimo Drona,
        leggo, oppure sbaglio, che non usi più il bruciatore sun p7.
        Sbaglio la traduzione oppure hai smesso di utilizzare il bruciatore di cui hai scritto e dedicato questo sito.
        Fammi sapere.

        Saluti

          1. Carissimo visto che sei così gentile e cortese, volevo sottoporre alla tua attenzione la foto del boccaglio usurato, cioè consumato dalle fiamme, per sapere se è accaduto a qualche utilizzatore del bruciatore.
            Ovviamente se hai dei consigli da comunicare ti prego di farlo.

    2. Carissimo Antonis,
      voglio comunicarti che ieri, con temperatura esterna 3 gradi, il mio bruciatore inserito in una vecchia caldaia del 1970, ha raggiunto e funzionato perfettamente.
      Temperatura acqua caldaia circa 70 gradi costanti, pompa sempre accesa con attivata la modulazione del bruciatore, ha raggiunto stabilità dopo due ore di accensione. Mi sono accorto che stava quasi sempre in mantenimento, cioè l’avevo fatto partire a potenza 2, ma in effetti stava quasi sempre in mantenimento a potenza 1.
      Credo che molto sia da attribuire al pellet di buona qualità. Anche il tubo di metallo posto sul bruciatore dove cade il pellet nel bruciatore era freddo, di solito è molto caldo. Inoltre, forse, anche per griglia che ho modificato ha reso migliore la combustione e quindi il funzionamento.
      Invio queste informazioni per uno scambio di opinioni tra utilizzatori del bruciatore.
      Saluti e grazie per le eventuali risposte.

    1. Si può solo impostare tutti i parametri ai valori di fabbrica (vedere il manuale). Vedo anche in „Schema di collegamento” c’è un „Reset bruciatore” pulsante (E), ma non sono sicuro di quello che fa.

  6. Hi there!
    I came across this page because I have a problem with my SUN P7 and I hope someone of you can help me here.

    I run the SUN P7 with the parameters:
    u01 – 76 ° C
    u02 – 3
    u03 – 0
     
    Basically, it works really well (40 minutes).

    Unfortunately I have the problem that I thus invite a buffer and the calculated charging time would be approximately two hours.
    The maximum operating time of the SUN P7 is with me, unfortunately, only about 40 minutes, then it turns off as if he had reached the 76 ° C, but not what he has.
    Right below the display disappear the 3 and the little stick, after this it appears that 0, shortly after the blowing begins and at the same time then comes the FH. Once he’s out, he starts again and the procedure is repeated until my controller reports that the buffer is full.
    In this procedure isno error displayed.

    To my temperaturs:
    At 74 ° C, the charge pump turns on and pushes the hot water in the buffer thereby increasing the boiler temperature to a maximum of 75 ° C (not 76°C) at 72 ° C, the pump switches off again and since the incoming water is quite cold drops the boiler temperature to 70 ° C , the water is then heated again and the process starts all over again, so I have only one Spreitzung of about 5 ° C to 6 ° C.

    To make sure that my signals are all correct, I have the terminals 7 and 8 as well as 13 and 14 bridged, without success.
    I also disconnected the boiler sensor and set this in parameter t02 to 0 without success.

    So please help me if you can and thanks in advance!

    1. Bad translation. I can’t really understand the problem…

      Try to lower the power of the burner. This will allow more time for the heat transfer to take place.

  7. Thank you all for sharing the experience.
    I am planing to install P7 these days and, as far as I can see here, I’ve made a bad choice with this device 🙁

  8. Hi,
    We have converted our oil boiler to a Ferroli Ps7, which is maintained as it should be.
    We keep on receiving the Ao4 error which appears to be happening due to the pipe overheating, and of course the Ferroli shuts itself down.
    The engineer has been out to see it a couple of times, he has replaced the fan, but can not determine the cause of the overheating, he has replaced the thermostat temperature detection unit, but this has not fixed the problem.
    Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
    Thanks and regards, Safari

    1. never had that error but from the manual: how high is your chimney? if it’s not high enough you will not have enough draught. The fan pushes air inside but that air can go out on the chimney and also up through the auger pipe. For this not to happen you need a high enough chimney. Also you need to clean your chimney periodically. I don’t know how it is when you burn oil but burning pellets is just like burning wood. A lot of ash will be deposited in the chimney, especially the horizontal pipes.

      Also did you modify t03 and t04? t03 thould be left as in the factory settings 51 Pa. With t04 you might have a problem if the pellets are not good enough so somewhere between 4 and 8 is good.

      Sorry I don’t have more experience based information.

  9. Hi, thanks for the information.

    We did have a wood stove also, and perhaps you are right with the chimney being too short, because when I would try to light it and it were were windy outside the smoke would come billowing out of the burner and fill the garage, this too would happen if there were no wind.

    The Ferroli will burn for say 40 minutes, and then the A04 will come on.

    We did think that perhaps the fan had been installed incorrectly (ie wired up wrong) but upon further research today, that does not seem likely.
    Everything is as per the factory settings, although the engineer did increase the flow of pellets on start up. But he really doesn’t have any idea as to what is causing the problem. The pellets themselves appear to be ok, burning nicely and leaving a very fine ash.

    From what you have said it looks as though we need to get a cowl to help with the draw, so until we get one we are without heating.

    Would the use of the Ferroli, and the continued use of it until we are able to purchase a cowl cause any long term damage?

    Thanks again for your assistance, it is very much appreciated.
    Have a great day.
    Safari

    1. Hi Safari,
      well you are the first person I hear that says the pellets are burning nicely. In Romania, pellets are quite a new thing and people don’t know what to look for when buying pellets. So they end up with pellets that contain sand, sand that will become glass when heated. This glass will block the burner after some hours.

      The increased flow of pellets on start up is ok if you have good quality pellets, and it seems you have. Otherwise the pellets pipe can become jammed and the burner will stop with A01 error.

      Long term damage: the only thing that keeps the plastic pellets pipe from burning is that 85°C sensor. So I would deal with this problem as soon as possible. Until then don’t let the burner unatended, remove any flamable materials from the proximity of the burner and so on. The way I see it, the problem is that the thing can catch fire if that sensor fails to stop the burner. Otherwise, there will be no (direct) long term damage.

      You could also improvise a cowl with a ceramic tile. Just make sure it doesn’t fall on no one’s head even with strong winds.

      Also, have a look at those rotating cowls. They act as a ventilator when wind blows.

      Have a nice day.
      Vali

  10. Hello all,

    It is now 5 days since I’ve installed my Ferroli P7. Well, as mentioned before, pellet quality metters most but I have several issues that I can not relate to pellet.

    First, and most annoying is that my P7 shuts down with A01 error but there is no jam at all. Everything is pretty much clear including ashtray, light sensor, pipes, holes … everything. Boiler temp. is newer above 45C deg. It operates in manual mode, with power level 3 or 4. After the reset, it starts again and works well for next few hours.

    Other problem is that occasionally it restart itself with no vissible reason. But this does not bother me too much since, after restart, it keeps running. This might have something with t18?

    And third, when the boiler temp. reaches about 40C, it pushes back a lot of smoke through pipe, auger, all the way to pellet reservoir and out to the basement. Wierd thing is that this smoke has no smell, or I cant sense it???

    Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks…

    1. For the smoke problem see answer given to Safari. You need a proper chimney.

      I had a „jam” because of the parameter t04. See in the article. Well the jam was not really a jam. The pellets on the pipe were building a bridge as they entered the gril, just next to the fire. This was a very weak bridge but it prevented the pellets to reach the fire so after a while the fire would die. When I would open the burner door, or at the slightest move, the bridge would colapse and pellets would fall down in the gril. Not sure if this is your situation (do you find unburned pellets in the gril?).

      t18 is for modulating power levels: it switches automatically from one power level to another depending on heating needs. I think on you case it should be 0 (no modulation).

      1. My chimney is about 7m tall and it sucks smoke just right, but still, part of the smoke goes back. If notning else, I’ll make additional fitting simmilar to iberlauf (don’t know right translation for this word) and hopefully, solve this issue.

        t18 is in zero state…

        Beside the fact that t04 is used only on startup (not the problem in my case), this small bridges that you mention, could cause the problem. I have to look for it more carefully this days. And yes, I can find unburned pellets in the gril. This could be a good lead

        Thanks!

  11. Hi Vali and Bojan,

    Thanks very much for the information, very informative,and it’s nice to chat.
    Anyway, we feel that we have sorted out the problem and I’ll explain.
    Because we have converted/adapted our old oil burner to accept the Ferroli, we noticed that although the conversion works, the overheating is coming from the fact that not all of the pipe the leads from the auger is inside the boiler itself, it sticks out by 12cm, so the heat that is generated by the auger is staying outside of the boiler unit, and this is causing the feeder pipe with the sensor to be too hot, causing the Ao4 error. That’s what we have concluded.
    Tomorrow we are going to get ourselves a cowl, and for now during the day we have had the Ferroli on without the sensor, and it is working great, just won’t leave it on over night. So our next job for Spring if not earlier is to purchase the Ferroli boiler, then there should be (touch wood) no problems.
    Our first batch of pellets came from Bosnia, and there is no problem with them. Our second batch come from Slovenia but the quality appears to be a little less than the ones from Bosnia, only slightly though.

    Have a great day, and thanks.
    Safari

    1. Hi Safari,
      nice to see you found the problem. You could isolate the portion of the pipe that is not inside the boiler with some clay or something better :).

      Cheers!
      Vali

      1. Hi Vali,

        hope all is well with you.

        A year later, and our Ferroli is going really great. We were using Enerles pellets, which were really great and no problems. We bought some cheaper pellets, aargh what a mistake, these were from Bosnia, never again will we buy them.

        We have also had a wood stove fitted in the lounge, a La Nordica Gemma, and we are using briquettes (hot blocks) with that, and it is wonderful.

        Keep well.

        Safari

        1. Hi Safari,
          great to hear all is good. Yes, I also found out the hard way that this burner only likes top quality pellets. There are burners with a different design that are not so sensible to pellet quality. Unfortunatelly a burner is a big purchase so once you bought it you can’t easily change it.

          Have a nice day.
          Vali

    1. you need to provide more info, what did you try to do, did it worked ok before, what did you change since then…

      A02 and F02 refer mostly to the light senzor: fake light gets inside the boiler or the sensor is in short.

      1. Hello , and thanks for the respond ..
        The problem is on the start ,i reduced the t04 so the the pellet dont stuck anymore ,but there is still a problem on start ,so after it load a pelet it stay some minutes and than A02 apear..so it cant burn the pelet

  12. Thank you so much for sharing this – my landlord chose the device and the technician does not seem to know much about the fine tuning (might not help that he has an Italian manual but would need it in Albanian…). I had the exact problem you described and found out the had the setting of t04 at 11 (pellet quality seems ok to me but not that great) so I went back to the default setting and hope to avoid the problem in future. Merry Christmas & thanks again!

    1. Merry Christmas Mini! I shared it because I had the same problems and it took a lot of time to fix them and I thought: well, somebody, somewhere will need this 🙂

  13. Hello
    First of all, thank you, thank you, thank you for starting this tread and for all fine explanation at the beginning. I am wrestling with my P12 for 2 mounts now. I don’t want to bother you with all horror stories, but would like to ask specific question. The burner worked fine (when it did) and was ON until it reaches 75 degrees, then it would stop until the temperature falls to 60 and then it would ignite again. The technician (who is pretty much clueless about 99% of details how it all works) said that he set it up that way and it was fine with me. Couple weeks ago the burner changed. After it stops at 70 degrees it starts again after around 5 minutes even if the temperature is between 72-73 degrees. This way it uses much more pellet and I would like to make it work as it was, to start a new cycle only when it falls to 60. What is the parameter that determines the beginning of a cycle ??? By the way, I am experimenting with burning almond shells instead of pellet. There are allot of those in our area and the price is half of the pellet.
    Again thank you for all explanations so far.

    1. What’s the value of u03? Mine is 0 because we have a room thermostat. In this mode, the burner starts and stops when the thermostat says so. Also it can stop when it reaches 75 degrees (u01), but this is a safety feature.

      As far as I know there is no parameter that sets a temperature that will start the cycle. Usually the burner starts when the thermostat orders it (if u03 is 0) or according to a weekly schedule (if u03 is 1 or 2).

      What you can try is to burn a few bags of the same pellets as you used to and see if the burner will behave the same as before. If it does then it’s not the burner.

      1. hy there

        i use this burner since almost two year, i like it

        @ZBB
        my sun P7 burner ignits once a day regardless of the temperature of the water

        the time when it does that moves 4 Minutes and 5 seconds

        so if it does that today at 06:00 it will do it tomorrow at 06:04:05

        i have not found out why but it rolls over 1 day per Year?!

        ;0)

  14. my uo3 is 0, so the thermostat controls the process. I have put pellet again and will do the tests again later today. I am still not giving up on using almond shells but want to make sure first that everything works fine with pellet. I have discovered many tricks about alternatives to pellet, that are cheaper and have the same caloric value. Now going back to pellet because I have a new container with remodeled walls, for better load that will not (hopefully) create empty space around loading tube, a problem that someone else mentioned here. Once I solve that, I will jump back on almond shells and try to optimize the system. Fingers crossed. Thanks

  15. Me again
    @ udo spune, yes I tried olive cores. The problem is that they are too small and tend to clog the burner right at the end of the pipe where the tube ends and enters the burner part. The first round of olive cores I got were very dusty too so that dust once accumulated at the burner entrance acted like a glue and all the olive cores would attach to it block the passage. Right now testing a medium size almond shells…..so so….when it works (passes the tubes and enters the burner) it’s all ok, but tends to get stacked in the plastic-rubber tube before it reaches burner……..still testing

  16. Me Again No2 🙂
    Hey guys I have good results so far with olive cores but with entire cores not the broken ones which usually come from olive oil factory. So, the whole olive cores load, burn and give good results. Problems; 1 There is a smoke inside boiler while it burns. Not that I care but the guy who brought me olive cores says that I need more air inside boiler. That way I guess it’ll burn better. To increase fan speed and give more air at specific power levels the parameters are;8,10,12,14,16, one for each power level. Before playing with that I would like to ask if anyone knows, what decides when are power levels changed ? Another words, how could I know at which power level my burner works at a certain point. If I knew that I could experiment with the fan speed and see if I can get rid of a smoke and have a better flame flow. Thanks

    1. You have to look at t18. If it’s 1 then it changes power levels, if it’s 0 then it doesn’t. If it’s 0 (which I recommend) then the power level is set by parameter u02.

  17. Thanks Drona for the fast response, my parameters are;
    18 is 000
    2 is 001
    I guess that means that burner always works on power level 1 ?
    So, I should increase air flow by increasing parameter 8 that controls ‘Fan set point and power 1) from factory setting 51 to lets say 60 and try ?
    And what if I increase power level to 2 ?? Any ideas ? Maybe not bad idea because those olive cores are greasy and dirty. I just cleaned burner and have found a lot of junk just like those on your pictures.
    I don’t mind do the cleaning more often if it otherwise works fine because olive cores cost around half the price of cheapest pellet.

  18. Sorry, got my mistake, I was looking at parameter t02 for power level instead to u02. So, uo2 is 3, which is set by factory, I have increased it to 4 and increased level of fan at parameter t14, which is for power level 4, from factory setting 120 to 130. Still smoke, but flame is nice and full………..still testing.

    1. You don’t have to change the power level set by u02. All these power levels are the same, they are just some settings, and you can make power level 1 as powerful as power level 5; all you have to do is to modify the two parameters of power level 1 to have the same values as power level 5. Power levels have to increase in power only if you use power modulation, but it’s not your case.

      Because you changed power levels from u02, you changed both how much air you have but also how much olive cores you burn. You should change power level back to what you used before (3) and increase the fan speed for that power level. Because power level 3 uses less olive cores maybe the increase in fan speed will make a bigger difference.

      Reading that you use olive cores sounds so… exotic :). No olives here!

  19. Hey hey Drona, agin grazie mille for your clarification, by the way this is the place I am trying to head http://fatalamanga.org/, we have a small theater, recording studio, guest rooms, our private part of the house, all around 300 square meters. At the moment I am heating only our part of the house, and 2-3 times a week we need a theater for evening rehearsals.
    To go back to the subject. ………… to be honest, now I am getting even more confused.
    So you are saying that I should only increase t12 which controls fan speed for power level 3. By the way, I was constantly experimenting with t07 for the load amount of the pellet or olive. It works and with pellet the setting was between 8 and 10 for a good flame result and with olive I was going up to 17, which means LESS load. The actual load time is always around 4 seconds but the pause, wait period until next load changes.
    I guess, the problem is that I still don’t get it correctly how the whole thing works, besides the fact that I was trying to burn all kinds of things almonds, 3 types of pellet, olives etc etc,………not an easy task for a musician …………… maybe a short SKYPE conversation could explain it all. If you can-want to do something like that, please let me know, you know my email. Grazie again, thank you very much

    1. Hi ZBB! even burning pellets I’ve found to be pretty difficult with this burner so expect even more problems if you try to burn something else.

      Let’s say you use power level 3. For power level 3, t12 and t13 are used to control the fan (t12) and the amount of pellets (t13). Besides these two parameters, t07 is also used, for all power levels(!), to control the period, the length of one cycle.

      Let’s say you have:
      t07 set to 15
      t13 set to 46

      This means that t07 is set to 15 seconds and t13 is set to 4.6 seconds (you have to divide by 10 as it is mentioned in the table).

      The burner will use these values like this:

      |----------------------------------------|--  (cycle repeats)
                    t07 = 15 seconds 
                 total length of one cycle
      |---------------|------------------------|--  (cycle repeats)
        t13 = 4.6 sec    (t07 - t13) = 10.4 sec
        load pellets    wait for pellets to burn
      

      Durring the „load pellets” period the auger is turning so you can time this period. You just have to remember that when the burner just started this period will be shorter than what it is set in the menu, but it will slowly increase until it will reach 4.6 seconds. You can time also t07, which is the length of time between two consecutive auger starts. This is constant from the beginning.

      As you can see, if you increase t07 you also increase the period in which pellets are burned (t07 – t13) while keeping t13 the same. This means you have less power.

      My advice is to keep t07 constant and only modify t13. This is how the burner was designed. Like this, increasing t13 means more power, decreasing t13 means less power. You also have to increase/decrease t12 for air, but it works the same: bigger value, more power.

      I hope it is clearer now.

      I added you on skype.

  20. Hey Drona
    It’s all clear now, thanks. I am back to pellet 🙁 for now. Olive cores were too dirty, bunch of smoke, the dirt would fill up the burner in just 4-5 hours with the same junk as in your pictures. The guy who gave me those olive cores said that he can get them cleaned ……… I am not sure I have the energy to experiment any more, at least at this time. I’ll full around with the settings and see what can i come up with. As for now, it works, but I see peaces of not burned pellet being blown inside the boiler, which is a waist and …….. BTW how you aded me on skype. I did’t give you my name, anyways it’s ‘pipasisu’. Grazie

    1. Hi ZBB. I just used your email address, but now that I think about it, I think it didn’t work (Skype said that an invitation was sent and that’s all); I haven’t used Skype for a long time. I added you with your name now.

      As for the unburned pellets, some people compained about it too in the romanian version of this article but nobody knows why it happens.

  21. Hey Drona, I think we have made that skype contact. As for unburned pellet, I think that the problem is with smaller pellets, they are too light and fan just blows them away. I have lowered fan speed from 100 to 95, the flame is smaller but I think that less pellets get waisted this way.
    I’ll look for you on skype these days and I can show you my whole setup.
    Grazie mille

  22. Hi Drona,

    Just an update for you regarding our ps7 burner.

    OK, we now understand that the conversion that we had done was not appropriate for our old oil burner, and the overheating came from the fact that the old boiler could not cope with the heat output. So the pipe connecting the pellets to the burner would overheat, and upon doing so the dust from the pellets we believe, would become sticky as the pellets were being fed into the boiler, this would in turn block the gasket pipe.

    The Ferroli engineer came out to see us, can’t fault him, really helpful and he advised us to get the SFL4, which we have, they installed it 4 weeks ago, and I have to say we are very happy with it. We have had no stuck pellets or any problems with this at all.

    We also had a huge problem with backdraft, one time it was so bad that the flame from the ferolli was blown back up the pellet pipe, and of course this melted. So we have now also fixed that little problem, as I had said before our chimney was too short and we purchased from the UK a Vedetta cowl, http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Vedette_Cowl.html
    there is nothing like this available in Slovenia, it was delivered within a week, and since fitting this we have no more problems with the smoke coming back down the chimney and into the garage, in fact the garage is now a nice place to be, it was inexpensive, and my husband and I were able to fit this ourselves.
    When we had our wood burning boiler it was murder when the wind was blowing, the garage was forever filled with smoke and the Vedetta has cured this problem, and now with the new Ferroli the house is toasty warm.

  23. Hey Drona
    Update. I switched to pellet for now, everything is ok, I made settings so I don’t waste much pellet. Anyways, I have found some local producers of ‘industrial’ pellet, that has 7% of ash as oppose to from 0.3 to 0.7 % of pellet usually found in the stores. I still have to try it and see how it goes, they said they’ll have more now in March. The price is exactly half of cheapest one (bulgarian) that I can find here. They say that caloric value is the same (4-5Kv) the only difference is the ash. Ash could be problem with pellet room heaters but with my big boiler I think I should be fine. Anyways, again thank you allot for all of your input, thank to you I understand how burner works. Cheers

  24. Thank u for nice photos and desc 😉
    I guess t20 is a reference voltage for photocell. To recognize flame earlier/later. I can not prove it (I have another kind) but measuring volts during ignition will give u proper answer.

    1. I think you need to have a look at t05 and t06.
      t05 seems to set how often the burner will decide if a change of power level is needed or not. This is done every 5 seconds by default.
      t06 seems to set how long it will take for the burner to switch from one power level to another power level. By default 100 seconds.

      I have no experience with modulating the power.

  25. I’m wondering why nobody is addressing the t17 problem. I have been having problems with the sun p7 for years.now, I am into my 5th heating season. I keep having problems with pellets.that get stuck. Can you tell me your t04 and t17 settings? From one winter to the next it seems to change. I have jams nearly ever day. I buy high quality pellets here in Austria but they are still quite.dusty. I read that one of you reduced the t04 setting to 4 (from default 8), also me. I am currently experimenting with t17 at 32. Maybe I make a fundamental mistake I am not aware.of? I’m on power 4, grille replaced as has been computer.

  26. Thank you very much for this article! It helped me big time!

    I edited settings you mentioned and now I have far less problems with my Ferroli burner. However, occasionaly it still gets stuck.

    My question is, did you or anyone else maneged to get to reset this burner remotely (with thermostat or some other device). I have seen in manual that there are pins number 9 and 10 (E and D) on the burner, that give blocking signal and burner deblocade function switch. However, my thermostat can’t recieve signal when my burner gets blocked (it’s Salus RT500RF thermostat). Can you recommend some device (or specific thermostat) that can recieve blocking signal from the burner and maybe use that deblocade switch function).

    I ask this because sometimes I can’t tell if there’s a problem with the burner, until temperature in the room goes low. Also, sometimes burner just shows an error without any pellets beeing blocked, so it only takes one press of a button to deblocade the system (that’s why it would be nice to have that function on the thermostat).

    1. you should also know that this burner is very sensible to electric voltage variations. The company that installed this one insisted in putting a voltage regulator. Even better you could install an UPS – uninteruptible power source.

  27. Hey drona,

    Nice explanation of Ferroli P7, its better to read your explanation than the Ferroli manual 😉
    I have one Ferroli P12, i bought it 2nd hand and the temperature sensor didnt came with the burner, i had to disable the sensor in order to put the burner running. I would like to ask you how the burner behaves with this sensor installed, did it switches completed off when the temperature reaches delivery set point (u01)? Did it feed less pellets to maintain the temperature?
    I have the thermostat from my boiler switching off the burner (request contact pins 7 & 8), but when the thermostat closes the burner will take too much time to start because of the start procedure of the burner itself. Will the connection of the sensor improve elimate this behaviour?

    Thank you

    1. It will just stop as it does now. You can put it in power modulation mode and then it will change the quantity of pellets so that it matches the power needed. However if you do that, you need to properly set all power levels. This burner is very sensible and it is very hard to set properly even one power level. So I do not recommend it.

      What you can try is to reduce the power level of the burner, by reducing the fan speed (fan set point) and the pellets quantity (auger activation time). Having a lower power level means less heat is generated and so the burner will have to work longer, hopefully not reaching so fast the point in which it has to stop. And maybe in that time cold water enters the boiler so the burner just keeps working without stopping.

      Do you use the burner just for hot water and no heating?

      1. I have both for hot water and heating elements (radiators). The problem is when hot water is consumed, the temperature will drop very quickly and the burner will not raise up the temperature fast enough. At the moment i have set power level at 1 and i have constant temperature at about 60ºC, i have decreased auger feed to have this setup. It seems i will have to play with power modulation the fullfil my needs. I will setup the temperature sensor and try the power modulation despite of you telling not to do it 😉

        Thank you

        1. In that case (hot water + radiators) you should definitely buy the temperature sensor. Also, if the water from boiler gets cold too fast, you need a bigger boiler.

          I think you might also need a 3 way valve that directs the hot water from burner to boiler if it’s needed or to radiators otherwise. I don’t know exactly how that works tho.

          1. I just order the sensor, will install it when it arrives.
            Well, i buy an house with central heating system based on a diesel boiler, so i switch the burner to the sun P12 few days ago. My system is similar to this one: http://dicasesquemas.blogspot.pt/2013/09/esquema-de-principio-de-funcionamento.html
            I never saw this kind of system, and now i won one. I detected some issues with my system, first is the pressure in the boiler circuit, if i open the water tap the pressure drops fast, i guess that shouldn’t happen because it should be an close circuit. Next issue is the pumps setup, they are in the hot line of the boiler, and they should be in the return line of the radiators circuit and hot water reservoir.

  28. Hello to you all.
    I have a problem since yesterday with my Sun P7. It does not want to start. It does preventilating ( O ) then puts the pellet in the burner and after few moments switches to ventilating again ( fh ). And it keeps doing that. Shows no error code. Can anyone help please???

  29. Hi all,

    I have my Ferolli SUN P7 for 3 years now. Except from the pellet jamming, sometimes, i dont have any other problems. I have it setup on modulation ON. I always buy premium pellets.
    This year i will try to use some olive core and skin pellets made here in my country by a local factory which buys the raw material from the oliveoil factories!! The price is very tempting.

    I will let you know how this goes.

    1. Could you please explain how modulation mode exactly works?

      Once, I had it enabled and observed that when the water temperature reached 10 degrees below the u01 setpoint (for example 60 degrees if the setpoint was set to 70) then the burner quickly switched from power level 5 to power level 1. After some time, when the water temperature decreased enough (I don’t recall the specifics), then the burner quickly switched from power level 1 to level 5 – practically skipping all intermediate levels.

      The above way of switching between power levels seemed to me (at that time) quite pointless, so I switched back to non-modulating mode.

      But I’ve always felt that I had missed something…

      Did I really miss something or indeed the aforementioned description is really the way modulating mode does its job?

      1. It should switch from one power lever to the next. Power settings should be so that power level 1 is the smallest power and power level 5 is the highest (you can actually set them anyway you want from the menu but for modulation they should be in ascending order, that is fan speed seeting and pelet quantity should increase from power level 1 to power level 5).

        You should also look at parameters t05 and t06. These define how fast it is transitioning from one power level to the next.

  30. Hi all,
    My SUN P7 starts the pre-ventilation cycle and stay there for long time without starting ignition.
    I have cleaned the pressure sensor’s pipe, the hole that connect the pipe with the ventilator’s enclosure, but no change.
    When i partially throttled the pressure sensor’s pipe, it terminate the pre-ventilation cycle and starts working, but the problem repeats every time.
    What can be done?

  31. Hi all!

    Since 2-3 weeks I have a problem with the fan! Or the motor of the fan?
    It makes a noise like rrr….rrrr….rrr…rrr (between 1-2sec)
    But the fan works fine and the burner works fine.
    I dont know? Is it the fan or the bearing?

    Annyone an idea?

    thank you and greetings from Austria

    1. I don’t have acces to the burner anymore but you can check also dust on the fan blades. Else, it is usually the motor.

  32. Please can anyone help me. I have sun p7 pellet burner and want to remove simbol for automatic mode from display. My sun p7 works in manual mode, u03 is set on 0. So, what happend exatcly. I press letter P once , not hold 10 sec for parametar service, just once and enter in menu for programing automatic mode. I press P again for 10 sec and go uot of menu, not chanching anything in submenus with + and -, just go out. So when i leave automatic menu, on display shows up simbol for automatic mode with ON which means that automatic mode is turn on but burner is set on manualy mode (that tells ON simbol). I dont know how i did that. My sun P7 still works only when i start him manualy on termostat, but i want to remove those simbols from display. If anyone knows how and what to press i will be greatfull. Thanks in advance.!

  33. Hi all!

    I´ve solved the problem with the noise motor „rrrr” ! As admin says, it was the motor! The manufactor sent me a new one and now it is quiet.

    Thank you

    …sorry for my bad english…

  34. Hi all
    I have problem with F05 error. It keeps showing every time burner starts. I tried to increase and decrease t3 parameter from 35 to 140 Pa and it seams it works at 85 Pa ( factory at 51Pa), but not every time. Does any one knows how to solve this issue. I got good and tall chimney, over 11 m height. Maybe the draft is bigger then 51 Pa and this mess the automatic? Have any one have advice how to reduce pellet consumption. Mine is around 30-40 kg/day on 34 kW power.

    1. in my case F05 appeared due to Voltage variation. Pressure switch is so delicate with voltage change, this is the root cause. Since I placed ups or voltage corrector i do not have this problem. Try with this, first measure your el. power voltage, if you have same problem. BTW, now I see some strange behavior in modulation work, during working burner from it self shut of and start again and continue. This is doing constantly all day. I do not know if this is normal or some problems with controllers.

  35. Good morning, we are using SUN 12

    I just want to clarify something please. I want our program to run on option UO3 – 1 – with all the options – but I am not sure which functions should show on the display: the symbol of the clock/timer is displayed – must the ON also show – because I can’t seem the get both of them to be on – does it even matter?

    I am just concerned that it will now just continuously burn with temperature changes only.

    THANK you so much for the best advice ever on this subject –

    1. I don’t remember how it was and I never used the timer but I think the clock is shown when the timer requested the start of the burner and the ON is displayed when thermostat or the manual switch requested the burner to start. Because when u03 is set to 1, burner will start on any request, the first that he receives. So I’m thinking it is only showing you why it started (clock = timer, ON = thermostat or manual ON switch).

  36. Dear sir.

    Thank you for the information. it is really helpful. But I am in a trouble now. My burner just blows the wind but don’t reload. And it is like around 10 min and stops to blowing. And then start to blink A04. All the system just blowing for the time. Could you help me to solve this problem? I am from Latvia but I am a Chinese. I never use the burner like this. And we have the obstacle with language.

    Thank you so much.

    1. Try to reset everything to default values, see the table. Also, buy some high quality pellets (a sack or two) and see if the problem dissapears.

      1. Hello, admin!

        I just did what you ask me to do. I reset all the parameters. But unfortunately the burner as usual. Just have a high speed blowing and then weaker and weaker until the screen show A04 and the burner shut down. the machine didn’t reload the pellets. I am hoping for your answer. My home now is around 10 degree. I will be happy if you can answer me quickly.
        Please.

        Thank you

        PS: I forgot to tell you that there also some problem with my Temperature Sensor. It fell down from the pipe.

        1. That is a protection temperature sensor. It prevents the pipe from catching fire. Maybe you keep it somewhere where is too hot and it shuts down the burner?

          Are the pellets of good quality? did you clean the burner?

          1. Hello

            I think its not only put to hot. Because when its cooldown. Just like usual, didn’t work. I clean the burner where we can see. But i don’t know how to clean deeply. DO you have some videos or something?

            1. I think you should call some local company to help you. The language barrier is too much.

              To clean it, you also have to take the red cover off. You should clean the light sensor and the heating element: Sun P7

    1. You increase t04. Use this procedure:

      The second menu is accessed by holding down P button (10 seconds – it’s good they didn’t make it 10 minutes…).

      The parameters are modified in the same way like on the first menu: P will advance to next parameter, + and – will modify the value.

      After you modified a value, you must wait 3 seconds so that it it’s saved. If you jump to quickly to next parameter, the value will not be saved (you must come back and check that the value was saved – annoying).

      To quit the menu, hold P until the clock appears again(10 seconds).

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